Tuesday, August 11, 2009

Great road trip of 2009

For over 20 years, I've wanted to go to the Great Plains. Don't ask me why, because I couldn't really tell you. Perhaps the vast openness; perhaps the lack of people; perhaps what I call "the pull of my people" (since I am part Native American). I was planning to do this back in the 90's, but never really got around to it. But now, a perfect storm of life situations made it possible. My proposed route was to be basically Dallas - Black Hills (Mt. Rushmore), SD- Devils Tower, WY - Little Bighorn, MT - Boulder, CO - Dallas. I wanted to stay off of interstate highways as much as possible, so I could see more of the countryside. The only part I wasn't sure about was making it to Little Bighorn - my problem when I left was having to be back on a certain day because C was possibly traveling. That part was going to be a last minute decision. Overall, I loved the trip. The only negative was that I picked the wrong time to be anywhere near the Black Hills - it was Sturgis week. I've never seen so many bikers in my life. I started seeing them in Kansas and the further north I went, the more I saw. Luckily, they were all heading south (since the motorcycle rally was ending that weekend and from what I was told, most of the bikers leave by Friday). Well, if most of them were gone, I can't imagine how many are there. They were ALL OVER THE PLACE. The hotel guy where I stayed in the Black Hills told me that you basically draw a circle 100 miles around Sturgis and that is how far they have to stay. Which also explains why I had to pay $100 for a hotel room that would normally be $40. Sturgis week + summer rates = $100. I guess I was lucky I could find a room at all. I can see why bikers love the BH - great weather, hilly and curvy roads. But they certainly hinder wildlife viewing. I can't count the times I was stopped on the side of a road watching elk or bison or antelope when here would come 5 or 6 or 20 bikes. They would stop to see what I was looking at and with all the noise of idling bikes, the animals would stroll or run off. Some of the little towns would not allow non-motorcycles down the main street because the traffic was so bad. Making turns took forever; buying gas took forever, trying to eat took forever. Then again, if I had a bike, I'd probably be up there with them.

I was convinced by a Park ranger at Devils Tower that I could make the trip to Little Bighorn before it closed. So I decided to give it a go. My route was going to take me thru 2 reservations, so I was advised to fill up before taking off, since there isn't much out there. I also had a back-up plan if I felt I wasn't making good enough time and had to call it off. About 20 miles before I had to make the decision, I ran into a really bad rainstorm. The temp dropped from 75 to 55 in about 5 minutes and it was raining with some hail mixed in. I was driving 80-85 (and getting passed) and had to slow down to below 55. But, after about 15 minutes, it stopped and the skies cleared and it looked good to the west. I made it with about an hour or so before the park closed. I was an interesting place, a bit eerie, and was the one place where I really thought about the history of the area and the Plains in general.

Some other observations:

  • I've heard of the "seven wonders of the world". Until I drove thru Kansas, I'd never heard of the "seven wonders of Kansas". One of which was "The Big Well" - the deepest hand-dug well in the world. For Kansas, I guess that is a big deal.
  • Why anyone would live in Kansas is beyond me. Nothing there, flat and just miles of dirt, corn, or wheat and a stench that made me gag every time I got out of my vehicle. All the people I saw were rather large, which surprised me because I could barely eat. But I guess you get used to it.
  • I saw a crop duster airport - a long shed and planes taking off one after the other. Cool!
  • My parents have always talked bad about Nebraska (the smell, the flat fields that go forever, brown and no trees). Well, the part of Nebraska I went thru was nothing like that. I saw trees, rivers, grassland with rolling hills. Not much wheat or corn. I even went thru a national forest that reminded me (sorta) of parts of Colorado.
  • The Iron Mountain Highway in the Black Hills is the coolest road I've ever been on. I was on it early in the morning in the rain, so I didn't see a single bike. Only saw 1 other car. Great views, great wildlife, unbelievable "rock tunnels" and then BOOM - Mt. Rushmore. And I think Mt. Rushmore is something every American should see (as well as a trip to DC). I thought all the faces looked like the person, except for Teddy Roosevelt.
  • The road curves and spiral over and under itself. Even at slow speeds, you get a bit dizzy. The best individual tunnel was on the Needles Highway.
  • When you first see Devils Tower from the highway, you are 20 minutes or so from it. When it popped up after taking a curve, I had a "Close Encounters" feeling, like I was being drawn to it. It was as awesome as I expected. The grooves and crevices were incredible and it looked really cool with the blue skies, white puffy clouds and birds flying on and around it.
  • Montana folks drive really fast. Then again, the roads are flat and you can see forever and you wonder why they even have speed limits. I seem to recall that parts of Montana didn't have them until just recently.
  • I spent Sat. night in Sheridan, WY. I couldn't believe how dead if was. I was trying to find a place to eat and had a difficult time finding any place that looked open. I think I may have been on the wrong side of town, but still, it was strange. I ended up having to get a sandwich and some chips from a convenience store where I bought gas.

I had a great time and probably could have spent another day in the Black Hills area, but I was worried about finding a place to stay and I was getting tired of bikes. Not the riders, because all the ones I talked to were nice and friendly. Just dealing with driving and noise and the hassle was getting to me. I want to go back during off-season and perhaps I can talk C into going as well.

12 comments:

Stephanie said...

Cool! Nothing like a road trip alone. Glad you got a chance to see the Plains. Don't know what you mean about the smell in Kansas. Cattle feedlots? or manure for fertlizer? North Dakota smells fabulous, if you ask me. Didn't know about your NA heritage. What tribe?

love johnson said...

Sometimes it was feedlots, but many times there wasn't one around (at least as far as I could tell). I spent one night in Garden City and when I went to eat, I almost didn't go in. How anyone in that town grills outside or does anything outside with food astounds me.

Cherokee. If I could find my full-blooded relative on the official Cherokee rolls, I could be a NA for any forms I filled out. But I haven't been able to find her (not that I have tried that hard).

Stephanie said...

What percent Cherokee?

love johnson said...

My great-great grandmother on my father's side was 100% Cherokee. She lost on eye when she was a child in an attack by the Choctaw's.

Stephanie said...

Do your great grandmother was 1/2; your grandmother was 1/4; your mother was 1/16 and you're 1/32?

Stephanie said...

Have you read Sarah Vowell's book about the Trail of Tears?

Stephanie said...

So did your great great gm leave the Cherokee when she married?

Stephanie said...

What year did she marry? I'm always so amazed at how recently it was that Native Americans were not in reservations.

love johnson said...

Great-great grandmother 100%
Great grandfather 1/2
Grandfather 1/4
Father 1/16
Me 1/32

The different tribes have different rules to be labeled as NA. The Cherokee Nation of OK has no blood quantum requirement; the Eastern Band of Cherokee has a requirement of 1/8. It's my understanding that she would be on the Dawes Roll for the Cherokee Nation of OK.

I have read a couple of books on the TOT - don't recall if either was Vowell's.

Stephanie said...

Interesting. We got a couple doses of NA history on the Bismarck trip. At the Slant Indian Village at Ft. Lincoln and at the Heritage Center in Bis. That history feels so close in Bis, but not so close here in Mpls.

love johnson said...

I'm trying to get the correct info from my parents. When I get it, I'll post something.

Stephanie said...

Vowell is part Cherokee (about 1/8th on her mother’s side and 1/16th on her father’s side). According to Vowell, “Being at least a little Cherokee in northeastern Oklahoma is about as rare and remarkable as being a Michael Jordan fan in Chicago.” She retraced the path of the forced removal of the Cherokee from the southeastern United States to Oklahoma known as the Trail of Tears with her twin sister Amy. This American Life chronicled her story on July 4, 1998, devoting the entire hour to Sarah's work.[1] http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sarah_Vowell

More here: http://www.identitytheory.com/interviews/vowell_interview.html